Most of my best days out here start the same way. A takeaway coffee in Gundy, the esky in the boot and a rough plan that usually falls apart the minute someone spots a shady bend in the river.
I’ll be upfront. If you’re after bungee jumps and white-water rafting, this isn’t your place. Outdoor adventures in Goondiwindi Region are slower than that. Think wide brown river, red gums, paddocks of cotton and grain, and a sky that seems to go on forever. Turn the engine off at any of the river reserves and you’ll hear what I mean. Mostly birds. Not much else.
This is the stuff I’d tell a mate who rang me up asking where to go: the river spots worth stopping at, where to camp, a few good drives through the little towns, and some practical bits so you don’t get caught out.
Getting Your Bearings
Five highways meet at Goondiwindi, so it’s an easy place to get to, especially if you’re coming up from New South Wales. The border runs along the bottom of the region, and the whole council area covers about 19,300 square kilometres. That’s a fair bit of ground.
It’s farming country. Cotton, grain, wool, beef, lamb, pork. You’ll see it out every window. The towns are small and people will happily stop for a chat. Plenty of travellers treat Gundy as a quick overnight on the way somewhere else. A good number of them end up staying an extra night or two.
Follow the River Road
If you only have one day, spend it on Kildonan Road. Locals just call it the river road. It runs alongside the Macintyre, with a handful of reserves strung along it like beads, and none of them cost a cent.
Bengalla Reserve
Bengalla’s a big, open, grassy spot with easy access down to the water. It’s perfect for morning tea. The kids can kick the footy around while you throw a line in or sit quietly and see what birds turn up.
Now, the fishing rules. The Queensland side hasn’t needed a licence, but New South Wales does, and the river is the border. Wander too far across and you could cop a fine. Rules change, so have a quick look at both state government websites before you head out.
Lees Reserve
Lees is about five minutes further along, and it’s probably my favourite stretch. There’s a natural rock bar across the river that makes it a good spot for both fishing and a swim.
Pack lunch for this one. A dip to wash the dust off, then a sandwich under the gums. Hard to beat, honestly.
Yellowbank and Rainbow Reserves
Keep going and you’ll hit Yellowbank, then Rainbow. Both have decent swimming holes. Rainbow also has a dirt boat ramp that’ll handle most tinnies, so bring the boat if you’ve got one.
You can camp at Rainbow if you want to stay out by the water. Otherwise it’s only about 20 minutes back into town, where the Goondiwindi Showgrounds has sites. Either way you’ll be eating dinner under a sky full of stars.
Coolmunda Dam
Over near Inglewood, Coolmunda Dam is where families go when they want a full day on the water. People ski, sail, canoe and fish here, sometimes all in the same afternoon.
Don’t leave the binoculars at home, though. The dam and the bush around it are full of birds and wildlife. Get there early if you can, before the boats start up. The mornings are lovely and quiet.
Camping at Green Up Meeting Place
Green Up is about 28 kilometres east of Inglewood, on the banks of Bracker Creek. It’s a good spot for a slow night. Get a campfire going, put a line in, or launch the kayaks and see what’s along the creek.
There’s more to it than campsites, too. You’ll find halls, artworks, a shop stocked with local handmade bits, and the CC Café for when you can’t face cooking. It’s only around ten minutes from Coolmunda Dam, so the two make an easy weekend together.
Goat Rock, for the Proper Bush
From Coolmunda, head south down the Texas Road for about 50 minutes and you’ll reach Goat Rock. If you want to feel like you’re actually out in the bush, this is the place.
Spend the day walking, birdwatching and poking around for native plants and animals. Keep an eye out for the Balancing Rock. Then hang around after dark. There’s barely a town light anywhere, and the night sky is something else. Phones tend to go back in pockets pretty quickly.
Outdoors Without Leaving Town
You don’t have to drive anywhere for a good day out. Goondiwindi has a couple of solid options right in town.
- Goondiwindi Botanic Gardens. Flat walking trails through native plants, with a bit to learn about local flora and fauna along the way. Easy going for grandparents and little legs alike.
- Goondiwindi Natural Heritage and Water Park. Bring a picnic. The kids can paddle in the swimming area while you find some shade, and there are walking trails if anyone’s still got energy.
- Apex Park. Not much of an adventure, but you can’t come to Gundy and skip the statue of Gunsynd, the Goondiwindi Grey. Locals are still proud of that horse.
Three Drives Worth Doing
Some of the best bits of this region are the bits in between. These three day trips all start and finish in Gundy.
Gundy to Texas, the Long Way
Take Kildonan Road instead of the highway. It’s about 114 kilometres, or an hour and twenty minutes, past creeks, crops and the odd mob of emus.
In Texas, grab a coffee from the bakery and wander down High Street. The Rabbit Works and the Heritage and Tobacco Museum are right next to each other if you fancy a look. Not in a rush? Roll a few bowls or hit the golf course before you head home.
Gundy to Inglewood, via Yelarbon
You’ll barely be five minutes out on the Cunningham Highway when you have to pull over. The giant Nungwai sculptures sit opposite the airport. Local grazier and artist Angus Wilson has been tinkering away on them for years. Get a photo. Everyone does.
About half an hour out, Yelarbon’s silo art stretches across eight GrainCorp silos and runs 96 metres. It’s one of the biggest in Australia, and it’s even more impressive in person.
Around eleven kilometres before Inglewood, LevenK Farm grows lavender and lucerne, with a lovely garden and a little shed shop. Give them a ring before you drop in. Past Inglewood, Coolmunda Olives lets you drive yourself around the groves in an electric buggy. You’ll catch glimpses of Lake Coolmunda through the trees.
Gundy to Talwood and the Weengallon Rock Wells
It’s a shorter trip, and one of the more meaningful ones. Talwood is about an hour and 90 kilometres away. Keep going towards St George until you reach Ngaru-gi Gali, the Weengallon Rock Wells. The name means “to drink.”
This is a sacred site. The six wells are part of a trail of rock wells running through Queensland. They’re thought to have been used on journeys between the Bunya Mountains and Boobera Lagoon near Goondiwindi. Take your time here, and treat it with respect.
Have lunch at the Talwood pub afterwards and see how many odd things you can spot on the walls. Stretch your legs around the rec grounds, then stop at Toobeah on the way back. It’s pronounced “two-beer,” which tells you most of what you need to know. Have a cold one and a yarn with whoever’s at the bar.
A Few Things I’d Tell You Before You Go
None of this is complicated, but it’ll save you a headache or two.
- Check the roads. Distances out here add up quickly, and a bit of rain can turn an unsealed road into a mess. Have a look before you head off.
- Stock up in Inglewood. There’s a butcher, a bakery and two grocery stores. Fill the esky there before you go bush.
- Sort out your fishing licence. Queensland and New South Wales do it differently, and the river is the line between them.
- Look into your campsite first. Some places want a booking, and fire rules can change. A quick call beats turning up and getting knocked back.
- Be careful in the river. Water levels move around. Check before you jump in, and keep an eye on the kids.
- Water, hat, sunscreen. The sun’s no joke here, even in winter.
Keep It Simple
What I love about this part of Queensland is how little it takes to have a good day. A river reserve and a fishing rod. A campfire at Green Up. A clear night at Goat Rock, lying on your back and looking up. Throw in a drive out to Texas or Talwood and you’ve got a trip worth remembering.
My advice is to choose a base, pick two or three spots and leave plenty of gaps in the day. The best moments usually happen when you weren’t planning anything. Check the roads, sort out your licence and campsite, and grab supplies in town before you head out. You’ll work the rest out once you get here.